Energy
Aug 18

Is a Heat Pump Worth It? The Real Costs, Savings and Trade-Offs

Are heat pumps really worth the money? We look at the costs, savings, payback time and the homes where they make the most sense.

Heat pumps / Explained
Contents
16 sections
  1. Introduction
  2. 01 Is a heat pump actually worth it?
  3. 02 What are you replacing?
  4. 03 How much does a heat pump cost to run?
  5. 04 Why your house matters more than the heat pump
  6. 05 Can heat pumps work with existing radiators?
  7. 06 Is a heat pump worth it in an old house?
  8. 07 How much does a heat pump cost?
  9. 08 How long does a heat pump take to pay for itself?
  10. 09 When is a heat pump not worth it?
  11. 10 Air-source vs ground-source heat pumps
  12. 11 Is geothermal heating worth it?
  13. 12 Does the heat pump itself matter?
  14. 13 What To Compare
  15. 14 A few heat pumps worth knowing
  16. 15 What should you ask before buying one?
  17. 16 Is a heat pump worth it?
  18. Key takeaway

Introduction

Are heat pumps worth it? If you're thinking about replacing your heating system with a heat pump, you've probably already encountered the big claims.

Lower energy use. Lower carbon emissions. Heating and cooling from one system.

But there's another number that tends to get left out:

The cost of actually making the switch.

The answer depends on the home, the heating system you're replacing and the cost of making the switch.

A heat pump can deliver several units of heat for each unit of electricity it uses, potentially reducing energy use and running costs. But the higher upfront cost of installation can make the financial calculation very different from one property to another.

An efficient gas boiler, an old oil system and direct electric heating all create very different starting points. So while heat pump costs and efficiency matter, they are only part of the equation.

In this guide, we'll look at installation costs, running costs, efficiency, payback periods, radiators, insulation and the difference between air-source and ground-source systems — and, most importantly, when switching actually makes financial sense.

The real question isn't whether heat pumps are good. It's whether one is worth it for your home.

Heat pumps / In a nutshell
Residential heating · visual guide
A heat pump does not make heat. It moves heat from one place to another.
Once you understand that one idea, the rest becomes much easier: electricity powers the process, outdoor heat is collected and the system delivers that heat to your home at a higher temperature.
Think of it as a refrigerator in reverse.
A refrigerator takes heat from the inside of the fridge and releases it into your kitchen.

A heat pump does the opposite: it takes heat from outside and moves it into your home.

It can do this even when the outdoor air feels cold, because “cold” air still contains thermal energy. The refrigerant cycle extracts that energy and upgrades it to a temperature useful for heating.
Start here:
Cold place
Heat is collected from outdoor air, the ground or another heat source.
Warm place
That heat is delivered into the building at a useful heating temperature.
The heat pump extracts heat that is already present and uses electricity to move it to a higher temperature.
01 / COLLECT

Take heat in.

A refrigerant absorbs heat from the outside source. In an air-source heat pump, that source is outdoor air.

02 / UPGRADE

Raise its temperature.

A compressor uses electricity to increase the refrigerant's pressure and temperature, making the captured heat useful for the building.

03 / DELIVER

Put the heat inside.

The heat is transferred into the home's heating system — for example through radiators, underfloor heating or air.

3–5×
Indicative efficiency range
Heat pumps can deliver several units of heat for each unit of electricity used.
COP 3
Simple operating example
1 kWh of electricity delivers about 3 kWh of heat at that particular operating point.
40–45°
Typical low-temp heating
Many efficient heating systems operate around this flow-temperature range.
50–55°
Domestic hot water
Hot water is normally produced at a higher temperature than space heating.
Outdoor air
Even cold outdoor air contains thermal energy. The heat pump extracts some of it through the refrigerant cycle.
Heat pump
Electricity powers the compressor, allowing low-temperature heat to be upgraded.
Your home
Heat is delivered through radiators, underfloor heating or an air system.
The simple rule
COP tells you how much heat you get for the electricity you use.
A COP of 3.0 means that, under a particular set of conditions, 1 unit of electricity produces 3 units of useful heat.
The important catch is that COP is not a permanent property of the machine. It changes with outdoor temperature and the temperature the heat pump has to deliver.
Electricity
1 kWh
Environmental heat
2 kWh
Delivered heat
3 kWh
relative efficiency →
colder conditions →
The rule

The smaller the temperature lift, the easier the job.

If the heat source is relatively warm and the heating system only needs moderately warm water, the heat pump has less work to do.

This is why insulation, radiator size, underfloor heating and weather compensation are so important.

higher efficiency
lower efficiency
30°C very low-temperature systems
40°C efficient heating
50°C higher emitter demand
60°C harder operating point
70°C boiler-like territory
01 / THE BUILDING

Heat loss

A poorly insulated building loses more heat. That increases the required heating capacity and can make low-temperature operation harder.

Heat-loss calculation comes before machine size.

02 / THE EMITTERS

Radiators & floors

Radiators originally designed around hot boiler water may not deliver enough heat when supplied with much cooler water.

Larger radiators and underfloor heating can make lower-temperature operation easier.

03 / THE CONTROLS

Weather compensation

Good controls adjust flow temperature as outdoor conditions change, helping the system run steadily rather than constantly cycling.

The controls are part of the system.

Air source
ASHP

Heat from outdoor air.

Usually simpler to install and requiring less land than a ground-source system. Its performance changes with outdoor temperature because the heat source itself becomes colder in winter.

Ground source
GSHP

Heat from the ground.

Ground temperatures are generally more stable than outdoor air, but installation normally requires ground loops or boreholes and more site work.

Electricity required = useful heat demand ÷ seasonal efficiency

Example: 12,000 kWh heat ÷ 3.0 SPF = 4,000 kWh electricity
The annual electricity bill then depends on the electricity tariff and the actual seasonal performance of the complete installation.

This is why a single laboratory COP can be misleading when comparing systems. For annual planning, look at the expected SPF / SCOP and the conditions behind that figure.
The heat pump is only one part of the equation.
A good installation is a system: heat loss + emitter size + flow temperature + controls + heat-pump capacity + electricity price. The biggest mistake is choosing the machine first and treating the building as an afterthought.
DATA NOTE — The 3–5× figure is an indicative range, not a guaranteed efficiency for every heat pump or operating condition. COP is a point-in-time performance measure; SPF/SCOP describes performance over a season. The 40–45°C heating and 50–55°C domestic-hot-water ranges are illustrative rather than universal requirements. The performance curve is an explanatory illustration, not a product test. Actual performance depends on the heat source, flow temperature, system design, controls, climate, building heat loss and operating conditions.

01Is a heat pump actually worth it?

The short answer is:

Often, but not automatically.

A heat pump doesn't exist in isolation.

You're replacing something — a gas boiler, oil boiler, LPG system, direct electric heating, an older heat pump, or perhaps a heating system that hasn't been installed yet.

The economics can look completely different in each case.

Someone moving from oil or LPG may have a very different financial calculation from someone replacing a modern gas boiler.

Someone using direct electric heaters is another case entirely.

The starting point matters
Upfront investment · illustrative comparison
The same heat pump can make very different financial sense depending on what it replaces.
A household replacing an inexpensive, modern gas boiler faces a different investment decision from one replacing oil, LPG or direct electric heating. The baseline matters before the savings calculation even begins.
Gas boiler
Reference baseline
reference
Air-to-water heat pump
Including radiator modifications
2–4× gas boiler
2–4× reported range
Oil · LPG · electric
Different starting economics
varies by market & system
Don't compare the heat pump with nothing.
Compare the complete heat-pump investment with the cost and future running costs of the system you would otherwise install. A heat pump can look expensive against a new gas boiler while looking very different against an oil or LPG system with high running costs.
Data source — International Energy Agency (IEA), The Future of Heat Pumps (2022). The IEA reported that even the cheapest air-to-water heat pumps, including modifications to existing radiator systems, remained approximately 2–4× more costly upfront than natural-gas boilers in most major heating markets. The comparison is a market-level indicative range, not a quotation for an individual property. Actual costs vary by country, building, system design, installation requirements, incentives and market maturity.

Therefore, thequestion isn't whether heat pumps are efficient.

It's whether their additional upfront cost produces enough value over the system's lifetime.

And this is where heat pumps become particularly interesting.

The technology has moved from being a relatively niche heating solution to an increasingly important part of the global heating system. The International Energy Agency estimates that heat pumps supplied around 12% of global space-heating needs in buildings in 2024.

12 %
Global heating
Heat pumps supplied around 12% of global space-heating needs in buildings in 2024.
A useful reminder of how far the technology has moved beyond a niche heating solution — while still leaving most global space heating served by other technologies.
Data source — International Energy Agency (IEA), Heat Pump Monitor 2026. 2024 global estimate for space-heating needs in buildings.

But global growth doesn't mean every individual home is automatically a good candidate.

A technology can be excellent while a particular installation is a poor investment.

02What are you replacing?

This may be the most important question in the entire article.

THE BASELINE
The starting point changes the answer.
01 — House A
High-cost heating
Older oil-heated home Relatively high annual heating costs. There is more potential room for savings.
high running cost
02 — House B
Lower-cost heating
Efficient gas-heated home A relatively modern boiler and lower existing heating costs.
lower running cost
Same heat-pump system · Same installation quote
House A
More saving potential
Replacing a costly heating system can create a larger annual saving, making the additional investment easier to recover.
House B
Smaller saving potential
If the existing system is already relatively inexpensive to run, the same heat pump may produce a smaller financial benefit.
The question to ask
What will the heat pump replace?
The technology is only one part of the calculation. Your existing heating cost sets the baseline against which the investment is measured.
CONTEXT — International Energy Agency (IEA), analysis of heat-pump economics. Relative economics vary with electricity and fossil-fuel prices, capital costs, system performance and local conditions. The House A / House B examples above are illustrative rather than representative savings estimates.

This is why you should never evaluate a heat pump using a generic "average saving".

Your starting point matters.

The IEA's current analysis of heat-pump economics similarly finds that the relative cost of heat pumps varies by country and system, with electricity prices, fossil-fuel prices, capital costs and operating conditions all influencing the result.

Europe · 2025
2.9m
domestic heat pumps sold across 21 European countries.
Annual change
+13%
sales growth in 2025 after two years of decline.
Installed stock
29.3m
heat pumps in the 21-country dataset.
DATA SOURCE — European Heat Pump Association (EHPA), 2026 market data. 2025 figures cover 21 European countries. Sales rose 13% year-on-year. Installed-stock figures include the countries covered by the EHPA dataset.

So before asking what a heat pump costs, ask:

What will it replace?

03How much does a heat pump cost to run?

A conventional electric resistance heater converts electricity directly into heat.

A heat pump works differently.

It moves heat from one place to another, using electricity to drive the process rather than creating all of the heat directly.

That means a heat pump can deliver several units of heat for each unit of electricity it consumes.

COP: the basic efficiency measure

The relationship between electricity consumed and heat delivered is described by the coefficient of performance (COP).

COP = heat output ÷ electricity input

For example, if a heat pump delivers 4 kWh of heat while using 1 kWh of electricity:

COP = 4

But there's an important catch.

A heat pump won't necessarily operate at COP 4 throughout the year.

Outdoor temperature, flow temperature, system design, defrosting, controls and hot-water production can all affect its performance.

That's why SCOP — seasonal coefficient of performance — is often more useful than a single headline COP figure.

The number that actually matters

The real-world question isn't:

"What's the maximum COP?"

It's:

"How much electricity will this system actually use to heat my house over a year?"

That distinction matters when you're calculating running costs.

A heat pump with an impressive laboratory efficiency figure isn't necessarily the cheapest system to operate if it's poorly matched to the building or has to run at unnecessarily high temperatures.

The house, the heating system and the heat pump all work together.

Efficiency in practice
A heat pump doesn't make heat from electricity.
It uses electricity to move heat from one place to another. That distinction is why a heat pump can deliver more heat energy than the electrical energy it consumes.
Energy in / useful heat out
illustrative example
Electricity in
1
kWh electricity
Heat pump
Useful heat
3–4
kWh heat
1 kWh electrical input + heat collected from the environment = useful heat delivered indoors
Coefficient of performance
COP = heat output ÷ electricity input
In the example above, if the system delivers 4 kWh of heat using 1 kWh of electricity, its instantaneous COP is 4.
COP tells you how efficiently the system is operating at a particular moment.
A COP of 4 does not mean the heat pump will maintain that performance all winter. COP changes with outdoor temperature, the temperature of the water being heated, defrost cycles, controls and other operating conditions.
SCOP
Seasonal coefficient of performance
The annual picture is more useful.
SCOP is intended to describe performance across a heating season rather than at one particular operating point. It therefore gives a better indication of how much electrical energy a system may require over a typical season.
Outdoor temperature
Heat pumps generally work harder as the temperature difference between the heat source and the heating system increases.
Flow temperature
Lower-temperature heating systems can allow the heat pump to operate more efficiently.
Real building demand
Insulation, weather, hot-water demand and controls all affect how much electricity the system actually uses.
The useful number isn't the maximum COP.
For a real homeowner, the more important question is how much electricity the system will consume over an entire year. Seasonal performance, heat demand and the required flow temperature ultimately determine the running cost.

04Why your house matters more than the heat pump brochure

A heat pump is only one part of a heating system.

The building determines how much heat it needs.

The radiators or underfloor heating determine how that heat is delivered.

And the heat pump determines how efficiently electricity is turned into useful heat.

The performance chain
The heat pump is only one part of the equation.
A home's fabric determines how much heat it needs. That demand influences the temperature the heating system has to deliver. And the conditions the heat pump operates under affect how efficiently electricity becomes useful heat.
01
Heat loss
Heat escaping through walls, windows, roofs and air leakage.
02
Heat demand
The amount of heat the building actually needs to stay warm.
03
Flow temperature
The temperature of the water sent around the heating system.
04
Efficiency
How much useful heat the pump produces for each unit of electricity.
05
Running cost
The electricity required to deliver the home's useful heat.
Small changes at the beginning of the chain can affect everything that follows.
A well-insulated, airtight home generally loses less heat, so it needs less heat output. That can allow the heating system to operate at lower flow temperatures — conditions that are generally more favourable for a heat pump's efficiency.
This is why the performance of the whole system matters. Insulation, windows, air leakage, radiator sizing and heating controls can influence the result just as much as the specification of the heat pump itself.
insulation windows air leakage radiators controls

This is also why I'd be cautious about any article that tells you exactly how much a heat pump will save without knowing anything about the house.

Your home isn't an average house.

05Can heat pumps work with existing radiators?

Yes.

This is one of the biggest misconceptions surrounding heat pumps.

You don't automatically need underfloor heating.

The real question is whether your existing radiators can deliver enough heat at the lower flow temperatures at which heat pumps generally work most efficiently.

A boiler might traditionally heat water to a much higher temperature. A heat pump generally performs better when it doesn't have to work as hard to produce extremely hot water.

So an existing radiator that works perfectly with a boiler might not deliver enough heat at a lower temperature.

But that doesn't mean you need to replace every radiator.

A proper room-by-room heat-loss calculation can identify which rooms actually need larger emitters — and which can work perfectly well with the radiators already there.

That's the question worth asking:
Can my existing radiators heat each room adequately at the proposed heat-pump flow temperature?

That's much more useful than simply asking whether your radiators are "compatible" with a heat pump.

And it's one reason I'd be cautious about a quote that recommends replacing every radiator without showing you the underlying heat-loss calculation.

06Is a heat pump worth it in an old house?

An old house isn't automatically a bad candidate.

But an old building can make the calculation more complicated.

Older properties can have:

  • higher heat loss
  • less insulation
  • draughtier construction
  • smaller radiators
  • heating systems designed around higher water temperatures

That can create a chain reaction:

The chain reaction

In old houses, one problem can travel through the whole system.

The building affects the heat demand. Heat demand affects the temperature the heating system needs to deliver.

01
Higher heat loss
More heat escapes through the building fabric and ventilation.
02
More heat required
The heating system has to deliver more heat to maintain the room.
03
Higher flow temperature
The system may need hotter water to deliver that additional heat.
04
Lower efficiency
A greater temperature lift generally makes the heat pump work harder.
The important bit: improving the beginning of the chain can improve what happens at the end.
Fabric Demand Flow temp. Efficiency

This is why improving the building can sometimes be more important than choosing a particular heat-pump model.

You don't necessarily need to transform an old house into a modern passive house.

But you do need to understand where the heat is going.

There is also a practical reason to think about insulation before the heating system.

If you reduce the amount of heat your house loses, you reduce the amount of heat the heating system needs to provide.

That can potentially allow for a smaller system and lower operating temperatures.

In other words:

The cheapest heat to produce is often the heat your house doesn't lose in the first place.

07How much does a heat pump cost?

This is where I'd resist giving readers one giant "average heat pump cost" number.

It varies enormously by country and property.

More importantly, you're not really buying a heat pump.

You're buying a heating system.

The real cost
The outdoor unit is only part of the project.
A heat-pump quote covers much more than the machine itself. The building, heating system, hot water, controls and electrical work can all change the final price.
What the project actually contains
equipment + installation + building
YOUR HOME heat loss · radiators · hot water HEAT PUMP equipment electricity INSTALLATION labour · pipework · commissioning heating emitters hot water controls
01 Heat pump

The main equipment.

The outdoor unit, compressor, heat exchanger and refrigeration system form the core machine.

02 Installation

Making it work.

Labour, pipework, connections, commissioning and the practical work needed to integrate the system.

03 Heat emitters

Getting heat into rooms.

Existing radiators may work — or they may need upgrading to deliver enough heat at lower flow temperatures.

04 Hot water

More than space heating.

If the heat pump also supplies domestic hot water, a cylinder and associated equipment may be required.

05 Controls

The system's brain.

Thermostats, weather compensation, sensors and control hardware determine how the system operates.

06 Electrical work

Connecting the power.

Cabling, protection, consumer-unit work or other electrical upgrades may be needed depending on the installation.

07 Groundworks

Especially for ground source.

Ground loops, trenches or boreholes can make ground-source installations substantially more involved than air-source systems.

That is why two homes can receive very different quotes for seemingly similar heat pumps.
The machine is only one component of the project. The condition of the house, existing heating system, hot-water requirements, electrical installation and site itself can all change what has to be done.
Don't compare heat pumps by the outdoor unit alone. Compare the complete installed system — equipment, installation, modifications, controls and site work.
The upfront-cost gap
2–4×
The IEA has found that even the cheapest air-to-water heat pumps, including modifications to existing radiator systems, can cost two to four times more upfront than natural-gas boilers in many major heating markets.
The investment problem is often front-loaded.
A heat pump can have attractive operating economics while still being difficult to justify financially because the installation requires more capital at the beginning.
Equipment can cost more than a conventional boiler.
Installation can involve more system integration.
Radiators or electrical infrastructure may need upgrades.
Ground-source systems add excavation or drilling.
DATA SOURCE — International Energy Agency, The Future of Heat Pumps. The IEA states that even the cheapest air-to-water heat-pump models, including modifications to existing radiator systems, remain roughly two to four times more costly than natural-gas boilers in most major heating markets. Actual project costs vary substantially by country, building and installation.

08How long does a heat pump take to pay for itself?

The simplest way to think about payback is to compare the extra money you spend upfront with the money the new system saves each year.

PAYBACK PERIOD = NET INSTALLATION COST ÷ ANNUAL SAVINGS

Imagine the additional cost of switching to a heat pump is €12,000, and the estimated annual saving is €1,200.

Try the scenarios
See how a small change in the house can travel through the system.
Move the sliders and watch the chain change. This is a teaching model, not a heat-pump quote: real performance depends on the actual building, weather and heat pump.
Heat loss
7.0 kW
How much heat the house needs to replace on the chosen design condition.
Flow temperature
45°C
The temperature of the water leaving the heat pump for the heating system.
Electricity price
£0.30 / kWh
Used only to illustrate the running-cost effect. It does not change the heat pump's COP.
MODEL NOTE — Heat loss is illustrative. Flow temperature and COP are not universally interchangeable: actual COP must come from the manufacturer's data for the specific unit and operating conditions.
What the model is showing
A lower heat demand can make lower-temperature heating easier to achieve.
Heat required
7.0 kW
Illustrative COP
3.6 heat / electricity
Electricity needed
1.94 kW*
Illustrative cost
£0.58 / hour*
01
Heat loss
02
Heat needed
03
Flow temp
04
COP
05
Electricity
In this illustration, reducing the building's heat demand makes it easier to meet the load with lower flow temperatures. Lower flow temperatures generally favour heat-pump efficiency, but the exact COP must be checked against the chosen machine's performance data.
* Educational calculation only. Electricity required here is calculated as heat demand ÷ illustrative COP. Cost is electricity required × the selected electricity price. The COP values are deliberately presented as illustrative scenario values, not as measured or manufacturer-certified performance.

Technical basis: Energy Saving Trust explains that COP and heat-pump output are affected by outdoor temperature and flow temperature, and recommends room-by-room heat-loss calculations and manufacturer performance data when sizing systems. MCS guidance likewise requires explanation of the relationship between flow temperature and efficiency and provision of design information.

10 YEARS

That's deliberately simple. Real projects are more complicated.

Energy prices change. Your heating demand changes. Maintenance costs money. Government incentives can reduce the upfront cost.

But there's another number that can completely change the calculation: the cost of the heating system you would have bought anyway.

If your old boiler is already 15 years old and you're facing a €5,000 replacement, the relevant question isn't whether a heat pump costs €12,000.

It's whether spending the additional €7,000 delivers enough annual savings to justify the upgrade.

That's the comparison that actually matters.

09When is a heat pump not worth it?

Sometimes the right answer is:

Not yet.

A heat pump may be a weaker investment when...

09 · When it may not make sense
Sometimes the right answer is not yet.
A heat pump can be an excellent investment, but there are situations where the numbers simply don't work yet.
01
The building has very high heat loss.
02
The system needs unnecessarily high flow temperatures.
03
Installation requires extensive and expensive modifications.
04
The existing heating system is already relatively inexpensive to run.
05
The projected savings aren't based on a proper heat-loss calculation.
06
You don't expect to stay in the property long enough to recover the investment.
The technology isn't necessarily the problem. The project economics might be.
A less attractive financial case doesn't mean a heat pump is a bad technology. It means the particular installation may not produce enough value to justify the investment yet.

This doesn't mean the technology is bad.

It means the project economics aren't attractive yet.

And sometimes the smartest heat-pump decision is to improve the building first.

There's also a broader point here.

Heat-pump adoption isn't simply constrained by technology. The IEA identifies upfront costs, installation costs, installer availability and building characteristics among the barriers slowing adoption in different markets.

The technology is only half the story.

10Air-source vs ground-source heat pumps

This is where the geothermal connection becomes particularly interesting.

The two technologies work according to the same basic principle.

The difference is where they collect heat from.

Air source / Ground source
This is where the geothermal connection becomes particularly interesting.
Both systems use the same basic idea: move heat from outside the building into the home. The difference is where they collect that heat from.
winter heating
Air source
ASHP
outdoor unit
heat pump
The outdoor unit extracts heat from the air and the heat pump raises its temperature so it can heat the home.
Ground source
GSHP
buried ground loop
heat pump
A buried collector loop exchanges heat with the ground, then the heat pump concentrates that heat and transfers it into the home.
4.5–21°C
shallow-ground temperature range
DOE cites roughly 40–70°F (4.5–21°C) for the relatively constant temperature of shallow Earth.
Why the ground is interesting
Outdoor air can swing dramatically between seasons. At sufficient depth, the ground is much more stable. In many locations, the ground is therefore warmer than the air in winter and cooler than the air in summer. That gives a ground-source heat pump a relatively consistent heat source for heating and a heat sink for cooling. :contentReference[oaicite:1]{index=1}
01 / SOURCE

Air follows the weather.

An air-source system exchanges heat with outdoor air, so its heat source changes with outdoor conditions.

02 / GROUND

Ground is more stable.

Ground-source systems exchange heat with the subsurface, where temperatures are much less affected by short-term weather.

03 / INSTALLATION

Stability comes with infrastructure.

The system needs a ground collector — typically horizontal loops or vertical boreholes — which adds excavation, planning and installation work.

Same heat-pump idea. Different place to collect the heat.
An air-source heat pump takes heat from the outdoor air. A ground-source heat pump takes heat from the ground. The ground option can provide a more stable heat source, but you have to install the infrastructure that connects the heat pump to it. :contentReference[oaicite:2]{index=2}
DATA SOURCE — U.S. Department of Energy, Geothermal Heat Pumps and Geothermal FAQs. DOE states that temperatures around 30 ft below the surface remain relatively constant at approximately 50–59°F (10–15°C), while its FAQ gives a broader shallow-Earth range of approximately 40–70°F (4.5–21°C), depending on location and depth. Ground-source heat pumps use buried or submerged heat-exchange loops to transfer heat between the ground and the building. :contentReference[oaicite:3]{index=3}

Ground temperatures are generally more stable than outdoor air temperatures.

That can give ground-source systems a more consistent heat source.

10–15°C
SHALLOW GROUND
Around 9 m underground, ground temperatures can remain relatively stable through the year.
1.5–100m+
LOOP DEPTH
Horizontal collectors stay relatively shallow; vertical systems can extend much deeper.
25–50 yrs
GROUND LOOP
Underground geothermal infrastructure can have a long service life.
DATA SOURCE — U.S. Department of Energy, Geothermal Heat Pumps; DOE, Guide to Geothermal Heat Pumps. Figures are indicative and vary by location, system design and installation.

But there's a catch:

You need a ground collector.

That can mean buried horizontal loops or boreholes.

And that means more excavation, more planning and usually a higher upfront cost.

11Is geothermal heating worth it?

This deserves its own section because people often use geothermal and heat pump interchangeably.

They're related, but they're not the same thing.

Geothermal / ground-source
Geothermal isn't another kind of heat pump. It's a description of where the heat comes from.
This distinction matters because the word geothermal is often used loosely. In residential heating, a geothermal heat pump usually means a ground-source heat pump: an electric heat pump that exchanges heat with the ground, rather than directly with outdoor air.
The broader idea
Geothermal energy
Heat associated with the Earth. The term covers several technologies, from direct geothermal heating to geothermal power generation and ground-source heat pumps.
The homeowner's technology
Ground-source heat pump
A specific heat-pump system that uses the relatively stable temperature of shallow ground as its heat source in winter and, when reversible, as a heat sink in summer.
How geothermal heating actually works
simplified cross-section
heat pump
vertical borehole another way to exchange heat with the ground
Heat source
The ground stays much more stable than outdoor air through the seasons.
Ground loop
Fluid circulates through buried pipes, exchanging heat with the surrounding ground.
surface
relatively stable subsurface
deeper ground
The ground isn't making the heat. It's providing a remarkably stable place to collect it.
A few feet below the surface, ground temperatures vary much less than outdoor air temperatures. In winter, that gives the heat pump a comparatively stable heat source; in summer, the same ground can act as a heat sink for cooling.
The buried loop is the important extra piece. A fluid circulates through pipes in the ground and exchanges heat with the surrounding soil or rock. The heat pump then upgrades that low-temperature heat so it can be useful inside the home.
The investment question
More efficient does not automatically mean better value.
Ground-source systems can offer a more stable heat source and high efficiency, but the economic case depends on the additional capital cost, expected annual energy savings, site conditions, electricity prices, available incentives and how long the system will be used.

The ground loop is often the biggest variable. Horizontal loops require suitable land; vertical boreholes require drilling and suitable geology. That is why a ground-source system can look very different economically on a new-build site than on a finished property where excavation and drilling are difficult.
DATA SOURCE — U.S. Department of Energy, Geothermal Heat Pumps / Energy Saver / Geothermal Technologies Office. DOE describes geothermal heat pumps (also called ground-source heat pumps) as systems that use relatively stable underground temperatures for heating and cooling. DOE materials report approximately 25–50% lower energy consumption versus air-source systems in certain comparisons and cite 300–600% efficiency ranges for geothermal heat pumps. These figures are technology-level reference data, not guarantees for an individual home. Source: U.S. Department of Energy, “Guide to Geothermal Heat Pumps” and “Geothermal Heating & Cooling.”

12Does the heat pump itself matter?

Yes.

But probably not in the way a shopping guide suggests.

There are major manufacturers including Daikin, Mitsubishi Electric, Vaillant, Panasonic and Viessmann, with systems designed for different climates, output requirements and heating configurations.

But comparing the badge on the outdoor unit is only part of the decision.

What matters is how the system performs in your house.

13What To Compare

Scop

Seasonal efficiency.

Cold-weather performance

How does output and efficiency change as temperatures fall?

Flow Temperature

Can it comfortably heat the home without constantly operating at inefficiently high temperatures?

Minimum Output

Can the unit modulate down sufficiently for the house?

Noise

Particularly important for the outdoor unit.

Controls

Weather compensation and good system controls can have a meaningful effect on operation.

Warranty

Important because this is a long-life household system.

Installer

Potentially more important than tiny differences between competing models.

This is why I wouldn't turn this article into a ranking of "the best heat pumps."

A model can have excellent specifications and still be a poor choice if it's badly sized or badly installed.

14A few heat pumps worth knowing

If you're researching the market, there are several major systems you'll encounter.

Daikin Altherma

Daikin's air-to-water heat-pump platform, widely used for residential heating and hot water.

Mitsubishi Electric Ecodan

A major air-to-water range designed around hydronic heating systems.

Vaillant aroTHERM

A popular European air-source platform, particularly relevant to homes using radiators or underfloor heating.

Panasonic Aquarea

A broad residential heat-pump platform covering different system configurations.

Viessmann Vitocal

A residential heat-pump range from a manufacturer with a long history in heating technology.

But I'd treat these names as starting points for research, not recommendations.

The more useful question is:

Which system can deliver the required heat in my house at an efficient operating temperature, and who can install and commission it properly?

That's a much harder question to answer from a product page.

It's also the question that matters.

15What should you ask before buying one?

If you're getting quotes, these questions are arguably more useful than asking for a particular brand.

Before you sign
Ask these 10 questions before comparing heat-pump quotes.
The equipment brand and efficiency number are only part of the picture. These questions reveal what the installer is actually designing, promising and pricing.
Questions checked
0 / 10
Why it matters
This is the starting point for sizing the system. The heat pump should be matched to the home's actual heat demand, rather than simply choosing a familiar size.
What you want to see
A heat-loss calculation in kW, including the design outdoor temperature.
Why it matters
Heat pumps generally perform better when they don't have to produce very hot water. Flow temperature also determines whether your existing radiators can deliver enough heat.
What you want to see
A specific design flow temperature — not simply “the heat pump can reach 60°C”.
Why it matters
A radiator that works perfectly with hot boiler water may deliver considerably less heat at a lower heat-pump flow temperature.
What you want to see
Room-by-room emitter calculations and a clear list of any radiators that need changing.
Why it matters
This is much closer to the number that determines your actual running cost. A laboratory COP alone cannot tell you your annual electricity use.
What you want to see
Estimated annual kWh of electricity, together with the assumptions behind the calculation.
Why it matters
SCOP describes seasonal performance under defined conditions. It is more useful for annual planning than quoting a single COP measured at one operating point.
What you want to see
The SCOP value and the temperature regime used to calculate it.
Why it matters
The coldest conditions are when the building needs the most heat and the heat pump can be operating under more demanding conditions.
What you want to see
The design temperature, available heat-pump output at that temperature and any backup heating assumption.
Why it matters
The installation may require changes to the electrical supply, consumer unit, protection or wiring.
What you want to see
A written description of electrical work and whether it is included in the quoted price.
Why it matters
Two quotes can look very different while covering very different scopes of work. The heat pump itself is only one part of an installation.
What you want to see
Equipment, labour, pipework, cylinder, controls, electrical work, commissioning and any groundwork clearly itemised.
Why it matters
The purchase price isn't the whole lifetime cost. Maintenance requirements, servicing and component replacement can affect long-term economics.
What you want to see
Recommended servicing intervals and an indication of expected ongoing maintenance costs.
Why it matters
A predicted saving is only as good as the assumptions behind it. Energy prices, heat demand, system efficiency and operating temperatures can all change the result.
What you want to see
The calculation itself — including energy prices, annual heat demand, efficiency and comparison system assumptions.
Your quote check
Mark each question once you've received a satisfactory answer from the installer.
0 / 10
Start with the fundamentals. A good quote should explain how the system was sized, how it will operate and what the quoted price actually includes.
EDITORIAL NOTE — These questions are intended as a practical checklist for comparing heat-pump proposals. Exact design requirements vary by building, climate, system and installer. COP and SCOP figures should always be considered alongside the operating conditions under which they were measured.

And I'd add one more question:

This is the question that sits behind all ten questions above. A heat-pump quote is ultimately a prediction: how much heat your house will need, how efficiently the system will produce it, and how much electricity you will use. The useful thing is knowing what happens when reality turns out to be different.
01 / CHECK

Compare reality with the design.

Start with the numbers that were promised: calculated heat loss, design flow temperature, expected annual electricity use and assumed SCOP/SPF. Don't judge performance from one unusually cold day or one month's bill.

02 / FIND

Find the assumption that changed.

Higher electricity consumption does not automatically mean the heat pump is faulty. The house may need more heat than expected, the system may be running at a higher flow temperature, or controls may not be operating as designed.

03 / FIX

Fix the system, not just the machine.

Commissioning, weather compensation, radiator sizing, hydraulic balancing, insulation and controls can all affect the result. The heat pump is only one component of the system.

The numbers worth keeping after installation
Predicted heat demand vs. actual heating requirement
Predicted electricity use vs. actual annual consumption
Design flow temperature vs. temperature actually required
Expected SCOP / SPF vs. measured seasonal performance
Quoted installation scope vs. what was actually installed
A disappointing result isn't necessarily a disappointing heat pump.
If the numbers don't match, the important question is why. A good installation should leave you with enough information to trace the difference between the original prediction and what actually happened. That's why the best questions to ask before buying are often the same numbers you want to understand afterwards.
Editorial note — Actual performance depends on building heat loss, climate, flow temperature, controls, system design, occupant behaviour, domestic-hot-water demand and equipment operation. Predicted performance should therefore be treated as a design estimate rather than a guaranteed household outcome.

If an installer is confident enough to give you a detailed energy estimate, they should also be able to explain the assumptions behind it.

16Is a heat pump worth it?

After all the technology and numbers, the decision comes down to a handful of variables.

The important question is not simply “Will a heat pump save money?” It is whether the building, the heating system, the energy prices and the investment cost work together to produce a sensible result.
01
Current cost
What are you actually spending today on heating and hot water?
02
Heat demand
How much useful heat does the building actually require over a year?
03
Efficiency
What seasonal efficiency is realistic once outdoor and flow temperatures are considered?
04
Total cost
What will the complete installation cost — not simply the price of the outdoor unit?
05
Annual saving
What is the credible difference between the old system and the new one?
Useful heat demand
12,000 kWh
The amount of useful heat the home needs over one year.
÷
Seasonal performance
SPF 3.0
An illustrative seasonal performance factor for the complete heating system.
Electricity required
4,000 kWh / year
12,000 kWh of useful heat ÷ SPF 3.0 gives approximately 4,000 kWh of electricity.
What this tells you
Not the bill
Multiply electricity consumption by the applicable electricity tariff to estimate the operating cost.
The comparison that matters
Compare the heat pump with what you would otherwise spend.
Suppose a complete heat-pump installation costs €18,000. A new boiler or equivalent replacement would cost €7,000. If replacing the heating system is unavoidable, the relevant additional investment is therefore approximately €11,000.

If the heat pump then saves €1,100 per year in operating costs, its simple payback on that additional investment would be approximately 10 years.
Heat-pump route
Complete installation: €18,000

Lower annual operating cost: − €1,100/year
Alternative route
Replacement heating system: €7,000

Plus its own future fuel, electricity and maintenance costs.
Simple payback
useful first check
Additional investment ÷ annual operating saving = simple payback period
In the example above: €11,000 ÷ €1,100 = 10 years. But simple payback does not capture everything. It ignores the time value of money and can overlook financing, maintenance, equipment lifetime, replacement costs and future energy prices.
The better question is what the heat costs over time.
For a serious comparison, look beyond the first few years. Capital cost + installation + energy + maintenance can be considered together over the expected life of the system. This is the basic logic behind levelised cost of heat: instead of comparing equipment prices alone, you compare the cost of delivering useful heat over time.
The cheapest heat pump is not necessarily the cheapest way to heat the house. A lower-priced system can perform poorly if it is badly sized or forced to operate at unnecessarily high temperatures. Conversely, a higher upfront investment can make sense if it materially reduces energy consumption over many years.
DATA / METHOD — The 12,000 kWh ÷ SPF 3.0 example is illustrative and is not a prediction for a particular home. SPF refers to seasonal performance rather than a single laboratory COP. The €18,000 / €7,000 / €1,100 example is also illustrative and is intended to show the difference between total project cost and additional investment relative to an alternative heating system. Lifetime-cost analysis considers capital expenditure together with operating and maintenance costs rather than comparing equipment purchase prices alone.

If your existing boiler is about to fail, for example, comparing a heat pump against the cost of doing absolutely nothing isn't particularly useful.

You're going to spend money on heating either way.

The real question is what you get for the additional investment.

The Bottom Line

So, is a heat pump worth it?

For many homes, yes.

But not because heat pumps are automatically cheaper than every other heating system.

They're worth considering because they can deliver large amounts of heat using relatively little electricity, particularly when the building and heating system are designed around their strengths.

The strongest candidates tend to be homes with reasonable insulation, manageable heat loss and heating systems that can operate efficiently at lower temperatures.

The calculation becomes less straightforward when installation costs are high, the building needs major improvements or an existing heating system is already relatively cheap to operate.

Ground-source systems add another layer.

They can offer excellent efficiency and stable performance, but the additional installation cost means that higher efficiency doesn't automatically mean a faster financial return.

And that's probably the most important thing to remember.

The best heat pump isn't necessarily the most efficient heat pump.

It's the system that works efficiently in your house, at a cost that makes sense for your energy prices and your expected use.

Before buying one, don't just ask:

"What can this heat pump do?"

Ask:

"What does my house actually need?"

That is the calculation that matters.

LIVE PERFORMANCE MAP

See where heat pumps
are being monitored.

Explore real-world heat-pump systems monitored by HeatpumpMonitor.org. Locations are approximate.

FAQs The questions worth asking

A heat pump can be worth it when its lower energy use and operating costs justify the upfront installation cost. Whether it makes financial sense depends on what heating system you are replacing, your home's heat demand, local electricity and fuel prices, and the cost of installation.

The most useful question is therefore not simply whether heat pumps are worth it, but whether a heat pump is worth it for your particular house and heating system.

Not necessarily in every market. A heat pump uses electricity, so its running cost depends on the electricity price, the price of the fuel it replaces and the heat pump's seasonal efficiency.

A heat pump can use substantially less energy than a gas heating system to provide the same amount of useful heat, but the financial saving depends on the relative cost of electricity and gas in your location.

Heat pumps can work well in old houses, but the building's heat loss needs to be understood before the system is sized. Older properties can have higher heat demand, draughts, lower insulation levels and heating systems designed around higher water temperatures.

A room-by-room heat-loss assessment can show whether insulation, draught reduction, radiator upgrades or other improvements are needed before installing the heat pump.

Yes. Existing radiators can often be used with a heat pump, provided they can deliver enough heat at the system's intended flow temperature.

Some radiators may need to be made larger or replaced if they cannot provide sufficient heat at lower temperatures. This is why radiator sizing should be assessed alongside the home's heat loss rather than assuming every radiator needs to be replaced.

No. Underfloor heating can work very well with heat pumps because it can provide useful heat at relatively low temperatures, but it is not a requirement.

Appropriately sized radiators can also work with a heat pump. The important factor is whether the heat emitters can provide enough heat at an efficient flow temperature for the particular building.

There is no single installation price for a heat pump. The total cost depends on the type and size of the system, the property, heat demand, existing radiators, hot-water system, electrical work and local installation costs.

Air-source heat pumps are generally less expensive to install than ground-source systems because ground-source systems require buried collectors, excavation or drilling. The most useful figure is therefore the complete installed cost rather than the price of the heat-pump unit alone.

Electricity consumption depends on the home's heating demand and the heat pump's seasonal efficiency. A system with a seasonal performance of 3 would theoretically need about 1 kWh of electricity to deliver 3 kWh of heat over the relevant period.

Actual electricity use varies with outdoor temperatures, flow temperature, hot-water production, controls, system sizing and the thermal performance of the building. SCOP is therefore generally more useful for estimating annual performance than a single maximum COP figure.

The payback period depends on the additional cost of the heat-pump installation and the annual savings compared with the heating system it replaces.

A simple calculation is net additional installation cost divided by estimated annual savings. A more realistic assessment should also consider maintenance, incentives, energy-price changes, the expected lifetime of the system and the cost of replacing the existing heating system.

A heat pump may be a less attractive investment when the installation requires extensive and expensive modifications, the building has very high heat loss, the proposed system needs unnecessarily high flow temperatures or the existing heating system is already inexpensive to operate.

It can also be harder to justify financially if the expected annual savings are small relative to the additional upfront cost or if you do not expect to remain in the property long enough to benefit from the investment.

Air-source heat pumps extract heat from the outdoor air, while ground-source heat pumps extract heat from the ground through a buried ground-loop system.

Ground temperatures are generally more stable than outdoor air temperatures, which can provide a more consistent heat source. However, ground-source systems normally require more extensive installation work and a higher upfront investment.

Not exactly. Geothermal is a broader term referring to heat from the Earth, while a ground-source heat pump is a specific heating and cooling technology that exchanges heat with the ground.

For homeowners, the more useful comparison is usually between air-source and ground-source heat pumps. Ground-source systems can offer stable performance, but the additional cost and installation requirements need to be considered.

They can be, particularly when a property has enough land for a suitable ground loop, the system will be used for many years and the additional efficiency or performance provides enough value to justify the higher installation cost.

However, higher efficiency does not automatically mean a faster financial return. The right comparison is the total lifetime cost of the ground-source system against the alternatives available for that particular property.

REFERENCES

Sources & further reading

Official data, research and technical guidance behind the costs, efficiency, installation and performance discussed in this guide to heat pumps.

01 International Energy Agency Heat Pump Monitor 2026 — global heat-pump deployment, market trends, cost competitiveness and the role of heat pumps in building heating. 02 International Energy Agency The Future of Heat Pumps — analysis of heat-pump costs, energy prices, installation barriers, building upgrades, heating systems and the economics of switching from fossil-fuel heating. 03 International Energy Agency Heat Pumps and Poorly Insulated Homes — explanation of heat-pump performance in older buildings and why insulation, heat loss and system sizing matter. 04 U.S. Department of Energy Heat Pump Systems — how heat pumps transfer heat, including air-source and ground-source systems and the basic principles behind heat-pump operation. 05 ENERGY STAR Air-Source Heat Pumps — guidance on system sizing, cold-climate performance, efficiency and choosing equipment appropriate for the home. 06 ENERGY STAR Heat Pump Equipment Criteria — efficiency and cold-climate performance requirements, including low-temperature capacity and efficiency benchmarks. 07 U.S. Department of Energy Cold Climate Heat Pump Sizing — guidance on heating-load calculations, system sizing and why oversized equipment can reduce comfort and efficiency. 08 International Energy Agency Heat Pumps for Buildings — research on building efficiency, heating-system performance, controls, incentives and policies supporting heat-pump deployment. 09 International Energy Agency Buildings and Energy Efficiency — evidence on insulation, building-envelope improvements, retrofit strategies and combining efficiency upgrades with heat pumps. 10 U.S. Department of Energy Geothermal Heat Pumps — technical background on ground-source systems, underground heat exchange, installation and geothermal heat-pump efficiency. 11 International Energy Agency The Business Case for Heat Pumps — analysis of running costs, electricity and gas prices, investment costs, incentives and lifetime cost competitiveness. 12 International Energy Agency Energy Efficiency Policy Toolkit — current research on building efficiency, electrification, heat pumps and the policies shaping residential heating.

Heat-pump performance and costs vary substantially by climate, property, insulation, heat demand, system design, electricity prices, installation conditions and local incentives. The figures and comparisons in this article should therefore be treated as benchmarks rather than quotes for a particular home.

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